Hagerman Hut Trip 2014

For over a year, our band of rugged Colorado adventures planned and prepared for an epic winter journey over the continental divide. Our plan was to begin in the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness in White River National Forest, hike up an over Hagerman Pass, and down to Turquoise Lake in the San Isabel National Forest. 

Along the way we would stop each night in one of the alpine huts managed by the Colorado 10^th Mountain Division Hut Association.  For the four day journey we would haul on our backs: food, avalanche gear, layers for changing weather, emergency camping gear, first-aid supplies, sleeping sacks, navigation equipment, and whatever creature comforts we could justify.  This roughly amounted to 30-40 pounds of supplies. 

Gear without food

Avalanche Prepared

Maps, Compass, GPS

As it turned out, arranging the shuttle setup for the through-hike became just too complicated with our group of seven.  We opted instead for a little help from a Leadville snowmobile outfit.  We would meet them at the Turquoise Lake Trailhead where they would load a sled with our gear while we would double up on sleds and ride 7.5 miles or so to the bottom of the Glacier Creek Trail where would start our hike up and over Hagerman Pass to Betty Bear Hut. From there we would turn around back over the pass and back onto our original route. 

The group finally came together for the first time in Vail the night before our journey. Zach generously put us up in the condo that he keeps to escape to whenever he gets a break from the ER.  We arrived  later then expected as a large winter storm had rolled in and I-70 was intermittently closed making for a slow drive from Denver.  Despite the late hour we had a good time comparing gear, drinking beer, and dividing up the bounty of food Logan had prepared for us. 

Chili, Pasta, Eggs, Quinoa, Oatmeal, Potatoes, Steak, Bacon, and token veggies 

The next morning we groggily packed our bags and loaded the trucks.  

Logan need caffeine

Sam needs nothing

Before leaving Vail we stopped at the North Side Diner for breakfast bagel sandwiches and coffee.  While waiting for our order Sam in his excitement pantomimed his graceful turns through the powder and it dawned on me that I had no poles.  Snowboarder that I am, I forgot an essential part of my touring setup! The split-board is a pretty sweet rig, but without poles I would have struggled and probably failed to cover the rugged terrain we had in store for us.  Fortunately Vail is laden with sporting goods stores and right next door I was able to buy a pair of decent poles with powder baskets and all!

We arrived at the trailhead under a grey sky and Sam and Logan busted some moves to lighten the feeling of apprehension most us felt while our guides loaded the sleds. 

Fruit Boots and Candycorn

Its all fun and games....

This is how you get into the back country

Despite being fairly well prepared for the weather we expected to face I don't think anyone was particularity warm on those sleds. Its one thing breaking trail at 2 mph uphill through the woods on your skis, and another thing to be speeding along at 20.  I've never ridden on of those beast before but damn is it fun.  

Loud, stinky, cold... but fun!

Our friendly guides deposited us at the trailhead and with ominous warnings and offers to retrieve us if we failed they snapped our photo and left us there.

Constant, Walt, Jayson, Zach, Sam, Logan, & Tom

Finally we were on our way.  The hike up Glacier Creek and over Hagerman pass was intense. The new snow meant breaking trail and route-finding, both of which became more and more difficult as we gained elevation.  I'm sure we all had great intentions of getting in shape before the trek, but I for one was more then a little challenged slogging that heavy pack through the snow and over the divide!  The weather, however, cooperated and didn't dump much snow on us, until the pass of course.

up

and up

and looking back...

and up

After stopping for a quick cold lunch we were on the pass.  Blowing snow made for a crazy crossing.  If not for the high voltage power lines we would have been hard pressed to find our way over.  It seems so clear looking at the map in your home that there is the pass and it is going to be freaking obvious when you get there. You just look for the low point between the mountains right? Well its not that easy, especially with visibility down to 30 or 40 yards and giant cornices seeming to loom in every direction.

Eye sore but good landmark

Epic, right?

Finally though we were over it and into a beautiful valley. All that was left was an "easy" 3.5 miles to Betty Bear.  The new snow had not fallen in this valley and covered the previous trekkers tracks so we made good time and arrived just as the sun went down.

simply lovely

Jayson conquers Hagerman

Tom rocks the snot-sickles

a lovely afternoon hike

We stumbled wearily into Betty Bear as the day receded.  We shared the hut with a bit of a crowd that night. Mostly it was a group of friendly astrophysicist from boulder as well as two couples who kept to themselves. Sam cooked steaks while the rest of nursed our weary feet and tried to re-hydrate after that brutal hike.

Betty Bear at Sunset

Sleeping at elevation takes some getting used to and most of us spent the night tossing and turning. Despite that we woke up to a magnificently sunny day. We were in no rush to get going again so we had a leisurely breakfast and did our best to tape the blisters on our poor feet before hitting the trail.

not hot yet?

Steak, Bacon, Eggs, and Potatoes for Breakfast

Logan rocks the cast iron on the wood stove like a pro

nice view out the window of Betty Bear

With only 4.5 miles to hike our day should have been a piece of cake, but it was not be.   The sun was baking the snow and within a mile we all had mounds of snow sticking to our skins.  I wish I got a picture of those amazing glaciers we were lugging around.  Its doubly annoying because not only are you carrying and extra 10 pounds of snow on each ski but you can't glide along either and end up having to pick up one heavy ski after another! Apparently there is wax for just this sort of thing, but of course we had none.

Leaving Betty Bear

A little too warm!

ski touring is fun

Eventually though we gained elevation and lost temperature and finally we were free of the ankle weights as we crossed the pass for the second and last time.

Logan snaps a selfie on the pass

much nicer day on the pass

Colorado or the Arctic?

Merry Mountain Men

Yeah Logan was there too

wintery panorama

The rest of the day was an easy mile or so to the Skinner hut. We even managed to get a few turns in!

down

down

down

and down

serious cornices all around us

waste deep

It was an easy hike but most of us were relieved to arrive at Skinner.  We had heard that a few weeks earlier a group of travelers had almost not found the hut as it was completely buried in snow.  They had called for help and when they verified their GPS coordinates it was confirmed they were standing right on top of it! I'm glad I didn't have to dig it out!

Skinner in snow

Apparently there is an amazing deck under there somewhere

Not a bad spot for a cabin

Skinner Lounge

Looking for a little more downhill action, Zach and Tom took off for a solo run while the rest of us enjoyed a cuban on the veranda.

 Just the thing for altitude sickness. Thanks Walt!

Bushed from our journey so far we ate Logan's amazing chili and turned in pretty early.  This hut was the highest and I for one barely slept, but at least the next day was mostly downhill.

The following day we got a little adventurous and decided to forsake the trail and drop off the ridge just east of the hut. This would allow us to not only shave off some mileage but get a little downhill skiing in as well.

Walt like trees

fearless trail blazers

Jayson and me regretting the splitboards

The descent was steep and pretty dense with trees but our motley crew made it down and thanks to Zach and Tom's route finding we managed to hit the bottom almost right at the Glacier Creek Trailhead we started from two days ago! Unfortunately I lost my GPS somewhere on the downhill. Major bummer.

Here our little band had to break up. Zach needed to get back to Denver for a shift in the ER and Tom decided to ski out as well.  We were at the road so their route was easy but a long one.  I was disappointed to see them go but glad we were at a good spot to split up. We shuffled our provisions and those of continuing the journey headed back on the trail.

The remainder of the day's hike took us into a proper wilderness area, where the precious blue blazes we had been following disappeared.  We were forced to rely on the map, gps, altimeters, and compass to find our way through the woods and over the ridges separating us from Uncle Bud's hut.  It was good hike and I was quite proud of us forging through the wilderness like proper adventures. After climbing to the top of one ridge we managed to get a few miles of downhill again.

taking off the skins

Logan waves hi, Sam is ready for action, and Jayson hates split boarding

 We drudged along through dense forest, across frozen lakes, and up and down several gullies, and finally as the sun went down and the snow began to fall we arrived at Uncle Bud's.

Walt in slow motion

A fine view from Uncle Bud's

Inside and warm

two splits and a pair of skis

it important to dry the skins

Uncle Bud's Interior

I think we all agreed that Uncle Bud's was the nicest of the huts we stayed at. Our group of five passed a relaxing evening around the fire just swapping stories and reflecting on our journey. We were all looking forward to the the last downhill and hoping the snow would keep falling. 

We awoke to a bluebird day and several inches of fresh snow.  Next time I plan on just staying put at on of these huts so I can just enjoy the mountains and not hike EVERY day. As it was we were all wanting to get going so we had a quick breakfast and headed out.  It was not a steep maybe as we wanted we were able to ditch the skins and ski for several miles which was awesome after hiking so many miles. 

Stoked!

That's a lake behind Logan

Walt can't stop talking

Unfortunately we could not go more then 20 MPH on the road

Sam was the king of cross country skiing

I don't unfortunately have any photos of our trip's end as we were all bundling into the trucks anxious to get some food and beer in Leadville.  I want to say thanks to all you  guys who came along and helped make this trip happen.  My camera died the first day so all the photos are compiled from everyone else's photos, so thanks to all you guys for uploading them.

We had a blast and I'm going to start planning for next year and I guarantee it will be even more awesome. If anyone else wants to join then drop me a line.  Cheers!